It's not the easiest place to navigate since the roads there are rugged and don't lead in a straight line, but with a name like the Wild Coast, we knew we had to go. And it turned out to be everything that we've been searching for.
Once 0ff the N2, the adventure started. The road worsened, modernity disappeared, and we started seeing round houses with thatched roofs called rondavals (rond-AH-vals).
As we wound our way through the rural green hills, at last we came to the blue strip of coast, and were greeted with an incredible natural spectacle called Hole in the Wall. This mighty cliff of rock standing just offshore has been beaten by the waves for so long, that a hole right in its center has been punched out. Like an enormous archway leading into an oceanic palace, it was dramatic to watch the water surge through the rocks with all its splashes of foam.
The next day was going to be one of our toughest as we wanted to get to the town of Port St. Johns from Coffee Bay by only taking the backroads along the coast. Actually, there is no road that goes along the coast, so we sort of just made up our path as we went along.
The roads in this area can be in very poor condition, some with deep ruts and cavernous washouts. But Tim skillfully maneuvered our heavy bike over big rocks and across rivers where the bridges were washed out.
Their directions led us down tracks through the forest, but now we were off any squiggly road known to Google or any of our other GPS apps. Truly in no-man's territory. Moreover, I was a bit concerned that these two stoned gentlemen didn't really know what they were talking about, and were sending us to nowhere. But amazingly, the road did go through, and suddenly the jungle opened up, and a proper dirt road was in front of us. We had made it back to civilization.
Emiliano is his name, and we immediately made plans to meet back up the next day at our camp: a rugged set of structures built into nature called Mbotyi Mountain Bush Camp.
The next day we all set off for a hike along the coast where we came across the “Cave of Wonders" only accessible at low tide, and finally Waterfall Bluff, which is one of the only waterfalls in the world to spill directly into the sea. It was spectacular.
So stay tuned!